Wednesday, April 30, 2008

Veni, Vidi, Vici

Tomorrow is a holiday here in Switzerland (Ascension Day).  I took Friday off from work, and Pam doesn't have class until Monday.   The weather should be nice.  So, we decided to book a trip to Italy!!

We are taking the morning train to Genoa via Milan tomorrow.  We plan to spend Friday touring the Italian Riveria -- Portofino, La Spezia, all the way down to Pisa.  On Saturday, we leave for Verona before heading back to Bern on Sunday.  Should be a busy weekend, but we are both very excited!  

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

German Bingo

(Pam) I started my German class yesterday and it is going surprisingly well. I think I'll do fine and may even be interested in going to the next level when this is completed. Maybe...
Everyone seems to be on the same level (can't speak any German). There are 2 students from Ukraine, 2 from Australia, 1 from Pakistan and 1 from Canada. One new person showed up today but I don't know where she is from. She was in the level II class but said it was moving too fast. Today we learned numbers then practiced by playing bingo. I don't think I won, I wasn't sure of some of the numbers that were called. Oh well. The class is for 2 hours (from 8-10am) and it is only a 10 minute walk from the apartment. I do like that it gets me out of the apartment early even though it is tough waking up. I have been sleeping in for the last month and got very used to it!

Sunday, April 27, 2008

One Month Anniversary

Today marks one month since we arrived in Switzerland.  It is hard to imagine Pam and I are more than 10% through this adventure or, put a better way, we still have about 90% left!  Time is passing so quickly.  

My Mom sent pictures from Florida today.  She is down there with Barry, Joan, Dale, Dang and my cousin Julie.  Looks like Barry tried his luck with that wheeled contraption Dale has.  It is just amazing that a "100% disabled" man like Dale is able to get around on that thing.  ;)  Wish we could have been there.  Maybe next year...

In the meantime, Pam and I went for a run along the river this afternoon.  It is a route we have done several times before.  But today was a beautiful day, and we finally remembered to take the camera along.  See map.  We cross over the Dalmazibrucke bridge near our apartment and then head south (upstream) along the Aare River on Dalmaziquai, past Stadtischer Tierpark and the village of Muri bei Bern.  We pass a zoo and a couple of cute restaurants along the way before crossing back over the river at a covered wooden bridge just past Muri bei Bern.  (See video) The path back on the other side of the river is more secluded with woods until we get to the village of Wabern on the outskirts of Bern.  Door to door it took us about 1 1/2 hours, but we stopped to take pictures and walked a little bit.  

 

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Mount Gurten - Bern

We decided to keep it local this weekend: a hike up nearby Mt. Gurten.  It was a beautiful day for it.  Besides, the summit wasn't too high up.  In fact, we can see the mountain top from our balcony window.  My work colleague, Marco, told me about a nice hiking path we could take.  He said Mt. Gurten is a popular spot among the Bernese (that's what they call the locals here), who walk or take the tram ride up the mountain with their families when the weather is nice.   

We strolled South along the river Aare for about 15 minutes before climbing the river bank up to the small village of Wabern.  There is a tram that runs between Wabern and the summit of Mt. Gurten every 30 minutes (see video), but we felt ambitious and decided to hike up the mountain.  There were lots of steps and beautiful views along the way.  We also came across a mountain bike path, where we were nearly taken out by a couple of cyclists barreling down the mountain (see video).    

Once we reached the  the top of the 864-Meter "mountain," we ate lunch and enjoyed views over the countryside and the capital of Bern (See video).  Satiated and still a little tired from the 2+ hour hike, we decided to lie down in a nearby meadow and bask in the sun.  It reminded me a little bit of Sheep's Meadow in Central Park, but without all the people.  

After a brief nap, we headed back down the mountain.  Needless to say, the walk down was much more enjoyable.  :)  We passed a quaint little cottage surrounded by grazing cows on the way down -- it was almost too perfect.  I was half expecting Julie Andrews to come running around the corner with bunch of rug rats in tow singing "The hills are alive...."  But it wasn't to be; only cows and an occasional hiker.  Maybe next time...

Friday, April 25, 2008

Gutes glück zu mir (Good luck to me)

(Pam) - I registered today for an intensive German beginner course. The class will meet M-F for 3 hrs each day for 1 month! I am either going to learn something or go nuts...The class needed 9 people and as of Wednesday had only 7 so I called today to ask if the class is a go. The woman on the phone said she spoke a little English and that my class starts on Monday. I'm fully prepared to come back home on Monday as I'm not sure she understood me. I said to her - did the class get 9 members and she repeated "your class starts on Monday". I'll just have to wait and see.....

Thursday, April 24, 2008

Videos

We finally loaded some old videos off our camera.  Thought it would be easier to post them all in one place:

Glacier Express:  Video 1 (In the "Land of Castles"), Video 2 (Near Oberalpass), Video 3 ("Its Awesome!"), Video 4  (Bad acting in Disintis)

St. Mortiz:  Video 1 ("Heading Back Down"), Video 2 (View from Chantarella)

Fribourg Finacular: Video 1

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Fussball!!!

(Brian) I decided to join the EBK Fussball team (a.k.a. soccer). It is kind of like a corporate softball team back in the States –mostly for fun and people of all skill levels are welcome. Figured it would be a good way to connect with people outside of the small department where I work. A great workout too.

My first practice was today at lunch. I can’t even remember the last time I played soccer, so I felt very much out of my element. But it was fun. I actually had two assists, so that made me feel better. I think the other players were taking it easy on me, but I’ll count the assists anyway!

There are some similarities to basketball – like keeping space between players on offense so that defenders can’t converge on the ball – but the basic footwork skills are a major challenge for me. Fortunately, we have a couple more practice sessions before our first match against Credit Suisse in mid-May. I’ll have to buy a soccer ball, so Chelsea and I can practice at home. :)

Sunday, April 20, 2008

Konstanz

(Pam) It was a late start today. We decided to forgo the $60 breakfast option at our hotel and found nice little outdoor cafe on the boardwalk of Lake Constance (a.k.a. Bodensee). We took our time watching the ferries come and go as the fog slowly lifted off the lake. Silhouettes of the Swiss Alps loomed off in the distance. Pictures just did not do this scene justice -- believe me, Brian tried! After breakfast, we took a short stroll along the lake shore to the point were the Rhine empties out of the Bodensee.

It was great weather, so we decided to take a boat ride to Mainau via Meesburg. There were amazing views of the Alps along the way, but unfortunately they could not be adequately captured on camera. Meesburg was a pleasant surprise however – a charming medieval city with a pedestrian-only cobbled street running through it. We admired the lovely buildings in the square and the numerous outdoor cafes. Unfortunately, we only had 15 minutes before the next ferry to Mainau.

Mainau is a garden island in Lake Constance. It is run by an organization established by the late Prince of Sweden, but is open to the public for a small fee. Besides flowers in the palace gardens, there are great park landscapes with beautiful views of the lake. Upon our arrival, we found a map of the island and went off to find a restaurant. But the crowds were oppressive. Frustrated and in no mood for lovely gardens with the crush of people, we decided to catch the next ferry back to Konstanz. We laughed afterwards about being thrown off by all the crowds – looks like we’re starting to lose our NY “edge” already! We did get some lovely photos before heading back. We also took in a lovely performance by a group of musicians playing Swiss horns.  (See video) It was a very picturesque scene with the lake in the background.

Once back in Konstanz, we headed to Old Town to get some food and drink at an outdoor café. Food and drink for me typically involves pomme frites and white wine. Relaxing and enjoying the people walk by, we noticed a disturbing trend among the men (and some women) – mullets!! Unfortunately, we couldn't get a good picture without being too obvious.

After lunch, we walked around and took some pictures of Konstanz before boarding the train back to Bern. Overall, it was a lovely weekend. My first time in Germany. We hope to return to soon, and this time get stamps on our passports. The customs office at the train station in Konstanz it was closed when we arrived – no joke!

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Schauffhausen


We took the 9:02 AM train from Bern to Schauffhausen, which arrived at 10:52 AM. The train ride allowed us time to review the guidebooks and plan the busy day ahead. From the train station we caught the No 1 bus for the 10 minute ride to Rhine falls – the largest waterfall in Europe. Niagra it is not, but the views were stunning nonetheless. Rhine falls is divided by a tall rock, which has a small viewing platform and is accessible by ferry. We admired the view from a distance as we walked along the north bank to Shossli Worth castle. From there, we took the ferry in for a closer inspection. We disembarked right below the falls at the base of the rock and climbed a steep staircase to the small viewing platform. Wow! The sound of the water roaring all around us with the cool mist spraying our faces was truly exhilarating. (See video 1 or See video 2) We stayed for only a few minutes before boarding the ferry to Schloss Laufen – a castle on the southern bank overlooking the falls at close quarters – and then eventually back Shlossli Worth. We ate lunch at a nearby restaurant with panoramic views.

After lunch, we headed back to Schauffhausen for a leisurely walk through the cobbled streets of old town. We are told Schaffhausen is nicknamed Erkerstadt because of its 180 Erkers (ornate bay windows) which the citizens built as a display of their wealth. Many of the houses also had decorative 16th century frescos. We passed Haus zum Ritter and Smiths’ Guild House on our way to the Munot fortress. The steps that lead to the tower are flanked by vineyards. We headed to the rooftop terrace for a drink and views of the city below.

It was then back to station, where we caught the 4:01 PM train to Konstanz. The landscape of northern Switzerland is much flatter than in the south, but no less beautiful. We felt compelled get off the train at Stein-am-Rhine, a small village “straight out of Christian Anderson fairytales” according to our Lonely Planet guide. It was beautiful. We stayed just long enough for a few pictures and a beer, before boarding the 5:27 PM train to Konstanz.

We arrived in Konstanz, Germany shortly after 6:00 PM. We checked into our hotel (conveniently located across from the train station) to freshen up. Then we headed out for a romantic dinner before walking back to the hotel to crash. We were both exhausted, but it was a great day all around.

Friday, April 18, 2008

Weekend Plans

Pam and I just booked a trip to Schaffhausen and Konstanz for this weekend. Schaffhausen is in northern Switzerland along the German border. One of the main attractions is the nearby Rhine falls, the largest waterfall in Europe. Konstanz is about an hour East of Schaffhausen by train across the rolling countryside. The town of Konstanz is actually in Germany. We are told it has a beautiful cathedral and it is located along a lake that straddles Germany, Switzerland, and Austria. Should be fun!

Interesting tidbit: Schaffhausen was the only Swiss town to be bombed by Allied aircraft in World War II, while Konstanz was the only major German town not to be bombed by the Allies. How ironic. Apparently, the crafty citizens of Konstanz left their lights on at night, and thus fooled the bombers into thinking it was actually Switzerland. Just to be safe, Pam and I decided to book our Saturday night stay in Konstanz (not Schaffhausen)!!

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Internet Blues

A technician finally came to install internet today. Yeah! :) But after several hours and lots of hand gestures -- the technician didn’t speak English –- we still didn't have internet. Boo! :(

Something about a signal failure…I don’t know anymore. Starting to lose hope…

Wednesday, April 16, 2008

Green Acres

One of the first things I noticed about Bern – besides the stunning view of the Alps – was the fact that many of the flat-roofed buildings had grass growing on them (pictures will be added later). It is not just Bern; green roofs dot the skyline of other Swiss cities as well like Basel and Zurich. I speculated that it may have something to do with insulation, or maybe they were intended as extremely unsafe lawn areas. Couldn’t figure it out….until I saw this article today on msnbc.com.

Turns out the concept is designed to reduce storm water runoff, lower the effects of pollution, and provide insulation. The green landscape is an added visual benefit. The article talks about how this environmentally friendly idea is increasingly being “exported” to the United States. Switzerland is referenced on page 3: “Endangered beetles and spiders have found refuges in Basel, Switzerland, where a city mandate requires green roofs to accompany all new flat-roofed buildings. Endangered rooftop orchids thrive in nearby Zurich.”

It is clear that conservation, recycling, and adopting ecologically friendly policies is a big deal here.

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

CheapOair

Noticed some great travel deals to Zurich today. Hint, hint...

Monday, April 14, 2008

“Die Katze schläft”

Thank you for the comments. We really enjoy reading them!!!

The weekdays are starting to feel a bit more normal around here, albeit with Curling on the German language sports station being the most interesting thing to watch on TV. We have no idea what is going on, but the rabid fans with face paint provide endless amusement. Hmm….wonder if the Swiss feel the same about NFL football fans? Anyway, a technician is finally scheduled to come out on Thursday to hook up our internet connection. That should provide some much needed alternative programming.

Today was a wash out -- cold and raining. With nothing better to do, I loaded the Rosetta Stone language software on our computer after work. Chelsea curled up on the bed near me while I struggled through the first lesson. Coincidently, one of the first phrases I learned: “Die Katze schläft” (i.e., the cat sleeps)!

P.S. I have a couple of interesting addendums to the Fribourg post (4/12). My office mate, Arno, returned to work today. Turns out he lives in Fribourg and commutes to Bern every day. He mentioned the Finacular we rode on Saturday is actually powered by the city’s sewage system (seriously) -- thought I smelled something funky on the way up!

Sunday, April 13, 2008

Happy Birthday, Jeff!!!

Happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you....

Beautiful Day in Bern

It was a beautiful day in Bern on Jeff's birthday. Pam and I ate lunch at a restaurant on the river and spent the afternoon walking around enjoying the day.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Fribourg

After a nice morning run along the river, Pam and I decided to go to nearby Fribourg for lunch. Coincidentally, my Uncle Terry spent a semester studying there when he was in college. He always talked so fondly about this experience, so I was excited to see the city for myself. Fribourg is less than 30 minutes by train from Bern. From the train station in Fribourg, we walked downhill along the pedestrian-only shopping street Rue de Lausanne into the Old Town. Fribourg was founded in 1157 along the River Sarine. Interestingly, Fribourg remained staunchly catholic throughout its history (despite the Reformation) and our guidebook says the bilingual Fribourg University remains the only Catholic university in Switzerland.

Much of Old Town is on the river’s west bank, around Cathederale de St. Nicholas and the elegant Hotel de Ville (town hall). We also saw the famous Tilleul de Morat (Morat Linden Tree) in front of the Hotel de Ville. According to our Fodor’s guide, the Tilleul de Morat marks Fribourg’s “greatest moment in history.” As the story goes, a messenger carrying news that the Swiss had defeated Charles the Bold sprinted from Murten to Fribourg (15km) in 1476 only to drop dead on arrival. “Onlookers, saddened by this tragic twist, took the linden twig from the messenger’s hat and planted it.” Ok. Couple of quick comments. First, 15km is not THAT far. Second, isn’t this story already claimed by the town of Marathon?

Anyway, it was after 2PM and all this talk of running was making us hungry. We searched long and hard for a place to eat, but apparently food is not served between 2PM and 6PM in Fribourg. All the restaurants close so the wait staff can sit around and drink coffee. Eventually, a waitress in one of the restaurants took pity on us and personally walked us to a place where she convinced the chef to open the grill so we could eat. Seriously, I can’t make this stuff up.

After a delightful lunch (We had the local specialty – perch), we continued on to the Basse-Ville or Lower City, which is tucked into a bend in the river. The sights here were spectacular. Sandstone cliffs loom over the lower city. And the network of bridges overlooking the city’s medieval architecture and stone towers provided some great views. We walked over the wooden Pont de Berne, the oldest bridge in Fribourg, before heading to the Funicular for a ride back up the hill. It was a short but memorable visit.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

The Shadow

(Brian): I am settling in at work. Our apartment is only a short walk from the office on Schwanengasse (10 minutes). I pass through a beautiful park at on the way; the trees and fountain provide a daily reminder that I am a long way from New York City.

The atmosphere in the office is great. Everyone has been so nice. They speak English when I am around so that I don’t feel excluded. Never the less, I went ahead and ordered Rosetta Stone German language CDs from Amazon this week, as I want to make more of an effort to learn the language and assimilate. While my coworkers work hard, they also take the time to enjoy the simple things in life. For example, I’m still getting used to the idea of not eating lunch at my desk. They also take short coffee breaks in the morning and after lunch, where they sit discuss the day’s events or world politics. They seem to know as much about the US election process as I do!

I share an office with two other people, Marco and Arno. Arno is away on vacation this week, but I have met him several times before and he seems very nice. Marco and I have gotten along extremely well. Despite his busy workload, he has always made time to answer my questions. He is fluent in Italian, German, French, and English – so I’ve relied on him to help interpret certain documents as well as my computer screen on occasion (see post from 4/8). I sometimes feel like his shadow, following him around everywhere -- meetings, lunch, breaks, etc. But he hasn’t complained…yet!

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Hair Adventures


(Pam): I ventured out again today despite the rain. The city seems to be well prepared for such weather, however. According to our guide book, Albert Eintein (a former resident of Bern) wrote the following in 1902: “Both sides of the road [in Bern] are completely lined by old arcades so that one can stroll from one end of the city to the other in the worst downpour without getting noticeably wet.”

Anyway, I was debating whether or not to keep my hair appointment. But I ultimately decided to try out this place to see if it could be “the one”. I took notice of all the black residents around Bern since I arrived to see what their hair looked like. The majority seemed to be in braids, which I took to mean that there were going to be limited places for me to get my hair done! I showed up for my appt, which I made with a guy that spoke excellent English, only to find that he was not there. Instead, I was taken care of by woman who barely spoke English. After about 3 hours and 80 CHF! my hair was only passable but it was worth a shot. I’ll keep looking for a better and cheaper hairdresser. I guess there are bigger problems going on in the world.

I consoled myself with dinner of the local Rosti (according to guidebooks – crisp, fried, shredded potatoes is German’s Switzerland’s star dish) with Brian.

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Off to Work I Go...

(Brian): I started work this week. I am on a nine month “exchange program” at the Eidgenössische Bankenkommission (or EBK). The objective is to gain a better understanding of how the EBK operates, and to facilitate better coordination between the EBK and the Federal Reserve on bank supervisory issues. I’ll be working primarily with the group responsible for supervising Credit Suisse and UBS, the two largest Swiss banking institutions. I am told I will be treated as if I am part of the team; working on projects, meeting with bank management, and helping to formulate the team’s risk assessments.

Anyway, my first day was much like any first day at a new job. Spent time going around introducing myself, went to lunch with my new boss, and spent far too much time resolving computer issues. Most annoying computer problem: the IT people loaded my computer with the French version of MS Office. Apparently, they had been tipped off to the fact that I had studied French for four years in college and spent a semester in Brussels, Belgium. They logically assumed I could speak a little French -- but of course I can’t. Worst part was I couldn’t even navigate the toolbar. Little boy genius over here took 15 minutes to figure out how to open an email! Fantastic. There’s nothing like setting the expectations really, really low on your first day. The good part is my new coworkers seem very patient and understanding. And maybe, just maybe, I might pick up a little French over the next nine months… :)

Monday, April 7, 2008

Monday Morning Run


(Pam): I decided to go for a run this morning. I went a different route from the one last week (mostly hills) -- following instructions from one of Brian’s coworkers who used to live in the area. He told us there was a nice trail heading south along the river toward Belp. It was beautiful and relatively flat. Along the way I noticed a lovely outdoor restaurant by the water, which might be nice to go to when the weather warms up. There was also a zoo where, from the running path, I was able to see buffaloes, rams, and several lovely white swans in a lake. I was really enjoying myself despite the cold (my hands felt frostbitten!). The trail seemed to keep going for miles, tracking the winding river upstream into the Alps. I turned around after only about 1 ½ miles and quickly headed back to home to warm my hands. I am going to need to pick up the pace a bit soon as Brian and I are planning a 10 mile run around Bern next month that is pretty major here. It’s probably second to the big celebrations that we are hearing about in June for the Euro Cup.

After shower and breakfast, I went to an internet café and then spent some time walking through Old Town. I found a post office and checked out a pharmacy to see what brands they carried (seems like everything). I also walked into a hair salon and made an appointment for Wednesday. Despite the cold, it was a really clear day. In fact, I was able to see all the way to the Alps for the first time since we arrived in Bern.

I met Brian after work for a walk and we were able to get some great pictures of the Alps which we would have savored more had we known that it would be cloudy and raining for the rest of the week!

Sunday, April 6, 2008

Rest Day

Today was a rest day. It snowed this morning and rained/drizzled all afternoon. It was a good day to do nothing. We watched some TV. And by that I mean we literally watched the TV; all the programming is in German. We didn’t understand a freaking word. We eventually got bored and ventured outside to see “Into the Wild” at a local movie theatre (German subtitles for the locals). Going to the movies in Switzerland is such a different experience. First of all, the Swiss have a reserved seating system. We actually picked out the row and seat numbers when we purchased the tickets. Second, the concession stand served beer and wine. They also offered free cheese and bread. Seriously, they had a cheese plate right there on the counter. To the horror of the other patrons, I attacked like I had been the one out there starving in Alaska for four months (see the movie if you didn’t catch that). Third, midway through the movie the screen went dark and lights came on. I was about to storm up to the ticket counter to angrily demand a refund, until I realized it was a planned intermission. It was actually perfect timing, since I needed to go to the bathroom anyway – thanks for the genetic defect, Mom. First day of work tomorrow. Should do some more traveling later in the week and get some more pictures on here.

Saturday, April 5, 2008

St. Moritz

It was an early start this morning (7 am). We ate breakfast at the Hotel Lauginella (excellent sausages), and then stopped by a sporting goods store to buy Pam some warm winter gear – we underestimated how cold it was going to be up here in the mountains (2C)! After Pam picked out a lovely matching blue sweater/hat number, we left for Plaza de Scoula to catch the tram up the mountain to Chantarella. The tram to Chantarella is a short 5 minute ride, but we accidentally got on a connecting tram heading further up the mountain on the direction from our non-English speaking tram conductor. Something obviously got lost in translation. Anyway, we ended up going to Carviglio (2,486m), which is about halfway between St. Moritz (1,856m) and the summit of the Piz Noir (3,057m).

When we finally got off the tram, Pam and I realized we were the only ones not wearing ski boots! After a nice cup of hot chocolate, we took some photos of the skiers gracefully weaving their way down the mountain amid the gently falling snow. It was damn cold up there, but amazing nonetheless! Before taking the tram back down to Chantarella (2,005m), I commented to Pam that it would be a dream of mine to come back and actually ski down the mountain from the top of Piz Nair some day.

Chantarella provided some spectacular views overlooking St. Moritz and the frozen lake that shares its name. We took a carriage ride to a nearby restaurant for some coffee before heading to the train station for our journey back to Bern via Chur and Zurich. The ride from St. Moritz to Chur actually retraced the Glacier Express route from the day before. I couldn’t resist taking more pictures and video of the rugged landscape in the Upper Engadine region in southwestern Switzerland. The trek from Chur and Zurich also provided for some scenic views.

Friday, April 4, 2008

Glacier Express

Brian and I leave today for the Glacier Express, a trip that we have been talking about for months!! The trip promises amazing panoramic views through the Swiss Alps, so we wait in anticipation of something magical on the train from Bern to Visp, where we will pick up the glacier express train.

Our first stop on the way to Visp was Thun (no major views), but at Spiez we saw glimpses of Lake Thun – it was just so beautiful and idyllic. We also caught a brief glimpse of Interlaken before the train disappeared under a tunnel. We emerged to the sight of snow covered mountains. The guidebooks barely mention Visp, but we walk around anyway when we arrive. It is unspectacular by Swiss standards, although there were some nice mountain views and a cute downtown area with cobble stoned streets.

At 11:06 AM, we board our train to St. Moritz and head off for our amazing experience. OMG! It is so beautiful. We are in absolute shock. There is one spectacular view after another as we make our way into the mountains. It’s everything you expect from a Swiss landscape, and more! We are not disappointed. I am so caught up in the scenery I forgot to mention that we immediately ordered champagne and toasted to our journey, actually we toasted to the Fed for giving us this opportunity 

Brian is sulking that there is no anti-glare on the windows. I hope we are getting good pictures as words would definitely not do these views much justice. I’ll hand over the journal to Brian as I drink in the scenery around me.

As we get closer to Andermatt, the glare of the sun reflecting off the snow becomes brighter and brighter. The sun feels warm inside our train car, but outside the snow practically envelops the small houses by the side of the tracks. We slowly wind our way towards Oberalpass, admiring the rugged, snow-swept landscape while dining comfortably on our three course meal. It looks so uninhabitable up here. I notice avalanche barriers protecting the route along the way – but I’m not sure if that makes me feel better or worse!

A little over two hours into our journey, we reach Oberalpass (2,033m) – the highest point of on our trip – at which point we start to descend along the Rhein River towards Chur (585m) in eastern Switzerland. I head to the back of the train to take some pictures and video. Along the way to Chur, we pass the towns of Disentis (1,130m), Trun, and Ilanz. The train stops for 20 minutes at Disentis to change engines, which provides us an opportunity to stretch our legs. I take some pictures in the valley between Trun and Ilanz before we pass through the Rhine Gorge (a.k.a. “Swiss Grand Canyon”) and the town of Reichenau. We finally reach Chur – the oldest town in Switzerland – four and half hours into our journey. We didn’t see much from the train car, but the surrounding region was apparently the inspiration for famous Heidi character.

After Chur, we head south towards Thusis and Tiefencastel, which took as through the “land of castles” and over the Via Mala gorge (the “bad road”). At this point, we had seen so much and traveled so far that our heads started to nod. But even the weariest traveler would awaken for what was in store: the last leg of our journey took us deep into the Alpine mountains of the Oberegadin (Upper Engadine) region, which includes the most photographed attraction on the Glacier Express. This winding, scenic leg of our voyage took us past the mineral spas near Filsur – followed by the picturesque Alpine villages of Burgun and Preda – before finally arriving in St. Moritz. Overall, it was an amazing journey that lived up to its reputation as being the most remarkable and breathtaking railway trips in all of Switzerland, if not the world.

Exhausted and weary from full day of sitting on our ass and eating, we summoned the courage to venture out for a fondue dinner for two at Engiadina after we checked into our hotel. Then we dulled the pain with a few drinks at the hotel bar before retiring for the night.

Thursday, April 3, 2008

Book Burning and Tourism in Geneva



We decided to take a break from all the administrative stuff today and visit Geneva (1 ½ hours by train from Bern)!! Our train stopped in Fribourg -- thought of you Uncle Terry -- and Lausanne, an idyllic small town with spectacular views overlooking Lake Leman (a.k.a. Lake Geneva). The countryside had lots of wide open spaces and the views of the Alps were amazing. There is still a lot of snow on the peaks, but the grass in the valleys was vibrant green. Still not too many leaves on the trees, but we did see a couple of cherry blossoms in Bern. The weather has been mostly overcast this week, but the clouds tend to break by afternoon, letting a little sunlight through. As I was sitting on the train staring out the window, I was struck by the symmetry between the cottages with steep, pitched roofs in the foreground and the sharp, jagged mountains looming in the background. Outside an occasional car or power line, it is the same unspoiled view that existed 100 years ago…or so I imagined.

Upon our arrival in Geneva, we went straight to the Palais de Nations (10 minutes North of Gare de Cornavin), where the European headquarters of the United Nations is located. The visitors entrance to the UN was closed for lunch, but we spent a few minutes walking around. Saw the nearby International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum (did not go in). In the plaza just outside the UN, we also saw a startling sculpture of an oversized chair with one broken leg, which was constructed to motivate countries to sign the anti-land mine treaty.

After the brief excursion to Geneva’s “Diplomatic and Humanitarian” zone, we boarded a tram and went to Geneva’s “Vieille Ville” (Old Town), where we walked around and took in the cobble stoned streets and historic limestone houses. The Old town is located on the south bank of the Rhone River, which divides Geneva and flows away towards France. We stopped for lunch (and a drink) at a cute restaurant in Place du Bourg-de-Four, which was the central square of the city back in the middle ages. After lunch, we toured the Cathedrale St-Pierre, where Jean Calvin preached from 1536 to 1564. We climbed the North tower for a bird’s eye view of the city and Lac Leman. Unfortunately, it was too overcast to see Mont Blanc which “floats above the hills on the far side of the lake like a sugar-dusted meringue,” according to our trusty Fodor’s guide (maybe next time). We consoled ourselves by walking to the Jardin Anglais, where we were greeted at the entrance by a beautiful floral clock. Our time in Geneva was running short, but we still managed to see the impressive Jet d’Eau (Europe’s tallest fountain) and the statue of Jean-Jacques Rousseau located, coincidently, on the Ile Rousseau.

As an aside, I couldn’t help but note the irony: Rousseau left Geneva at the age of 16 and his books were burned by the town’s residents until in 1834 (56 years after his death), when they realized the economic implications of his legacy (i.e., tourism) and promptly built a stature in his honor. Good stuff.

Anyway, after the Ile Rousseau, it was back to the Gare de Cornavin for the 4:20PM train back to Bern, where we are to pick up our tickets for tomorrow’s excursion on the Glacier Express!!

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Swiss Efficiency?

First order of business today was to print out bank statements at a nearby Internet café. It should have only taken a minute, but we ended up sitting there for 1 ½ hours surfing the net, checking account balances, and sending emails! The bank statement was the last piece of paperwork we needed for Pam’s resident permit. On the way to the Foreign Police office we stopped by Swisscom to get an update on our internet. Two days had passed since we had placed the order, and the Swiss “efficiency” we had heard so much about was nowhere in sight: instead of 7 days to complete the order, the time estimate inexplicably doubled to 14 days. Huh?! I sarcastically asked if they were in cahoots with Time Warner Cable, but I don’t think they got the joke. Anyway, we went on our merry way to drop off Pam’s paper work and then did some more shopping for household supplies (the bills are starting to pile up!). Pam continued home, while I met up for a drink – or three – with my future work colleagues at the EBK (Vinzenz, Marco, and Tim). I start work on Monday, but I wanted to thank them for all the hard work they did last week to get my visa rushed through the various government agencies in record time. My appreciation for what they accomplished grows every time Pam and I have to deal with the Foreign Police office.

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

Settling In - Chelsea's Way


Tuesday morning got off to a great start: Pam and I went for an invigorating run along the Aare River, across the Nydeggbrucke Bridge on the eastern tip of Old Town, past the famous Zytglogge (clock tower), and over the Kirchenfeldbrucke Bridge on the way back home. We arrived just as the FedEx trucked pulled up with the computer we shipped from NY several days earlier (what timing!). We also met one of our neighbors, Irene, on our way up to our apartment. She was very pleasant and spoke enough English to recommend a swim in the river Aare this summer, “like the locals do” she said with a smile.

Just as we were beginning to savor the thought of a leisurely swim in the river on a nice summer day, we opened the door to our apartment and were greeted with a pungent odor – Chelsea had taken our absence as an opportunity to reliever herself for the first time in three days on the $1000 couch. Our disgust quickly turned to panic as we realized the owner, George, was stopping by in less than two hours to introduce himself and drop off the inventory list for our signature! I quickly ran (uphill, no less) to the local store to pick up air freshener, and anything else that could disguise the smell of cat urine in our apartment while Pam helped sponge down the couch. We managed to get the place in barely passable shape just in time. I’m sure we seemed quite nervous and edgy as George walked through the living room, but he didn’t say anything – phew!!

We spent the rest of the day trying to get the smell out of cushion and taking care of other administrative items like getting Pam’s paperwork in order for her residence permit, buying cell phones, and shopping for a proper litter box -- up until now we had been using a small cardboard box, which might explain why Chelsea preferred the couch. :) The day ended just as it had started – on a good note – as Pam and I polished off some Swiss Gruyere and wine while enjoying the partial view of the sunset over the Aare River from our balcony. Chelsea meanwhile spent the night sulking under the bench in the kitchen.